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DRIFT

The London label’s latest wave of arrivals swaps polish for texture, running Cherub graphics and vintage western jeans through Sofia Prantera and Fergus Purcell’s genderless house code.

Ninety nine styles currently populate the New Arrivals page at Aries, pulled from a wider catalogue of 299 products once the sale and archive sections are counted. The spread runs from a £22 sock to an £830 leather bag, touching denim, knitwear, jewellery, shirting, and a short outerwear run of just two jackets. Eighty six of the pieces carry the Aries name outright, with the remaining thirteen belonging to No Problemo, the label’s genderless offshoot. Tees make up the largest single category at eighteen pieces, followed by underwear at fifteen and a general accessories bucket at twenty nine.

Aries itself was founded in London in 2009 by Sofia Prantera and Fergus Purcell, two Central Saint Martins graduates who first worked together at Shoreditch’s Slam City Skates before building the streetwear label Silas in the 1990s. Purcell had already designed the Tri-Ferg logo for Palace Skateboards by the time the pair reunited to start Aries, and that graphic instinct still runs through nearly every piece in this drop. The brand now operates a permanent flagship on Great Pulteney Street in Soho, and this new arrivals wave reads less like a seasonal statement than a working restock: a lot of familiar silhouettes, cycled through new fabrics and colourways.

Aries has also long organised its output around three categories rather than the usual two, splitting product into Women, Men, and Don’t Care rather than forcing every piece into a binary. That categorisation shows up again here: the majority of tees, jeans, and outerwear in this wave list a full baby through XXL or 24 through 36 size run with no gendered split at all, while only a handful of pieces, like the Lil Cherub Cap Sleeve Tee capped at an XS to L range, read as narrower fits. It is a small structural detail, but it has shaped how the label has been covered since its earliest seasons, and it is part of why Aries landed a nearly four hundred page retrospective from Rizzoli last year charting the brand’s first fifteen years.

 

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Denim carries a lot of the weight here. The Classic Batten Jean lands in black at £200, sized from a 24 to a 36 waist, while the Acid Wash Batten Jean pushes the same cut into a red acid treatment for £220. The Vintage Western Batten Jean shows up in both blue and brown at the same £220 price point, leaning into a worked in, secondhand look rather than a raw one. Four jeans in total make it into this arrival wave, all sharing the Batten name and the same size run, which suggests the house has settle on one core denim fit and is treating the washes as the seasonal variable rather than reworking the pattern itself.

That restraint is worth noting. Aries has built a reputation on genderless tailoring since its founding, and keeping a single jean sil across three finishes rather than launching three distinct cuts keeps the collection legible. It also lines up with how the brand has historically approached its denim: fewer shapes, more treatments.

It also mirrors the approach No Problemo took with its own debut denim, which launched in a true indigo wash alongside a tightly controlled colour palette of navy, olive, black, and white. Where No Problemo used colour restraint to keep its first collection legible as a new label, Aries is using wash and finish to do the same job on an already established sil. The effect across both labels is a wardrobe that reads as considered rather than sprawling, even when the underlying catalogue runs to nearly a hundred pieces.

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Away from denim, the collection leans hard into texture. The Fluffy Column Chenille Reversible Zip Thru Hoodie tops the outerwear-adjacent pieces at £365 in red, running from a baby size through to an XL, and it has a companion piece in the Fluffy Column Chenille Crew Neck at £300 in grey. Corduroy shows up in the Acid Corduroy Walking Pant, priced at £290 in both grey and brown colourways, and knitwear gets a single heavyweight entry in the Chunky Knit Classic Jumper, also £300, offered in brown and black.

Outerwear proper is thin on the ground this time around, limited to the Sherpa Vintage Western Car Coat at £290 in blue and brown, the only two jackets in the entire ninety nine piece wave. That scarcity puts more pressure on the chenille and corduroy pieces to do the seasonal heavy show, and price them in the £290 to £365 range position, as the collection’s mid tier investment pieces, sit well above the £70 to £140 band where most of the graphic tees and shirts land.

The western name across both the car coat and the vintage western jean is not a coincidence. Both pieces share the same worked in, secondhand finish that runs through the rest of the wave’s washes, and pair a western branded coat with a western branded jean in the same arrival rel lets the two pieces read as a single reference point rather than two unrelated capsules competing for attention on the same page.

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Graphics are where Purcell’s design hand is most visible, and two recurring names, Temple and Cherub, thread through several categories at once. The Temple SS Tee comes in four colourways (black, white, red, and navy) at £80 each, and the same graphic extends into the Classic Poplin Temple LS Shirt at £185 and a matching Classic Poplin Temple Boxer Shorts at £90, both in white poplin. A holdover pair from the prior season, the Premium Faded Temple Bomber and its matching Premium Faded Temple Straight Sweatpant, still sits in the arrivals feed at £270 and £210.

Cherub gets its own smaller run: the Cherub Stripe LS Shirt at £190, the Lil Cherub Cap Sleeve Teeat £70, and the Cherub A Sock, the cheapest item in the entire wave at £22. Beyond those two recurring names, the graphic tee run gets stranger and more specific: the J’adoro Weedie Pie SS Teeat £85, the Smoking Tiger SS Tee at £85, the Aries and Destroy LS Tee at £105, and the Airtex Cartoon Pagans LS Tee at £140, the most expensive tee in the drop. Shirting closes out the graphic run with the I’m Cross Graphic Poplin LS Shirt and the Studdmeggedon Stripe LS Shirt, both £190 and both built on poplin bases rather than jersey.

None of these names explain themselves, and that is fairly typical of how Aries titles its graphics. The brand has never leaned on plain product naming, preferring in house slang that only makes sense once you have followed a few seasons of drops. It is a small thing, but it keeps the collection feeling like an ongoing in joke rather than a retail catalogue.

Purcell’s design fingerprints are easiest to trace in the poplin shirting, where the graphics sit smaller and more considered than they do on the tees. The Studdmeggedon and Cherub stripe shirts both use a striped base fabric as the canvas rather than a flat tincture, which changes how the printed graphic reads depending on where it lands across the stripe. It is the kind of detail that rewards a second look rather than announcing itself from across a room, closer to the smaller scale, recurring view lang Purcell has been known for since his years designing for Palace and Silas than to a single loud logo drop.

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The thirteen No Problemo pieces inside this arrival wave belong to a label that only became fully independent in January 2024, when Aries spun the phrase off its own t shirts and hoodies into a standalone line under the debut collection Area 001. Sofia Prantera remains creative director across both labels, and No Problemo continues to use the same Italian and EU factory network as its parent, but the two operate on separate release calendars and increasingly separate collide slates: No Problemo recently paired with Australian eyewear brand Le Specs on a four piece capsule built around an alien face motif, distinct from anything Aries proper has put out this season.

 

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Inside the current wave, No Problemo’s presence is smaller but consistent with how the label has position itself since launch: genderless, oversized, and built around a tighter uniform than its parent brand’s sprawl graphic catalogue. Where Aries spreads its ninety nine pieces across a dozen loosely related graphic fam, No Problemo’s thirteen entries read as a single, tighter capsule sit inside the bigger rel.

The two labels also share more than a creative director. Both run through the same network of factories across Italy and the wider EU, according to report at launch, which keeps production standard consistent even as the two brands diverge style. No Problemo has describe its own house look in the past as a genderless uniform meant to be worn on repeat rather than a seasonal wardrobe, a frame that puts it closer to a basics label with a strong graphic identity than a full collection brand. That distinction is worth holding onto, because it explains why No Problemo’s thirteen pieces in this wave skew toward repeat staple rather than the one off graphic tees that make up so much of the lengthy side Aries catalogue.

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Two leather goods pieces sit well above everything else in the wave. The Vintage Leather Niner Shopper Bag tops the collection at £830, and the Vintage Leather Kasper Bag follows at £705, both offered only in brown and only in one size. Jewellery sits in a middle tier below that, with the Mini Column Carabiner Earring pair at £135 in a silver and gold finish and the J’Adoro Aries Paved Earring at £100 in gold.

Aries dark brown distressed leather tote bag with long shoulder straps, front zip pocket, gold logo plaque and metal carabiner detail.

Aries dark brown distressed leather tote bag with front zip pocket and metal carabiner detail.

 

At the other end of the scale, the Rib Vest (Twin Pack) comes in at £120 for two pieces in a white and black combo, and the Cherub A Sock remains the single cheapest item across the whole wave at £22. That spread, from a £22 sock to an £830 bag, is wide even by streetwear standards, and it puts the leather goods closer to the price bracket of a small leather goods specialist than a t shirt label.

Accessories make up the largest single category in the arrival wave at twenty nine pieces, ahead of tees at eighteen, which puts the two leather bags in context: they are outliers within a category that otherwise runs cheap and plentiful, from the £22 sock through to jewellery in the £100 to £135 range. The collection’s own avail filter lists the majority of styles as still in stock, with a smaller number marked sold out across specific sizes rather than pull from the page entire, which points to a wave still mid rollout rather than one already dwindle down toward markdown.

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