Gabrielle Chanel Figures Reign Supreme Over – One-Off Chess Set
May 18, 2026
A pair of miniature Gabrielle Chanel figures reign supreme over this one-off chess set. Discover Chanel’s unique chess set, complete with diamond-studded pieces and concealed clocks.
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In the rarefied world of haute horlogerie and high jewellery, where innovation meets unparalleled craftsmanship, Chanel has once again redefined luxury with a creation that transcends mere functionality. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2026 as the centrepiece of the “Coco Game” capsule collection, this one-of-a-kind chess set—valued at approximately $4 million—is not just a game; it is a sculptural masterpiece, a wearable timepiece, and a profound homage to the enduring legacy of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself.
Two miniature figures of Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel, resplendent in their diamond-encrusted tweed suits, stand as the queens on this extraordinary board. They command the field with quiet authority, embodying the strategic brilliance and timeless elegance that defined their namesake. Beneath their iconic slingback shoes lie concealed quartz watches, ready to be detached and worn as pendants on a hidden white gold, diamond, and onyx chain. This is chess elevated to the realm of art, where every move tells a story of heritage, precision, and coltish rebellion.
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Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of Chanel’s Watchmaking Creation Studio, conceived the idea for a game-inspired collection years ago. “I always knew one day I wanted to create a collection inspired by games, connecting Chanel and the watch world,” he explains. Chess, with its stark black-and-white duality, minimalist forms, and strategic depth, perfectly aligned with the maison’s aesthetic codes. The project took two years to realise, drawing on the expertise of Chanel’s artisans in ceramics, goldsmithing, gem-setting, and watchmaking.
The result is a 37.9 cm x 37.9 cm board resting on a lustrous obsidian base, engraved with “Pièce unique” and “Fabriquée en Suisse à la manufacture horlogère de Chanel.” The 64 squares alternate between deep black and pearly white high-resistance ceramic—material far harder than steel—bordered by a dazzling row of 516 brilliant-cut diamonds. This architectural precision mirrors the clean lines of Chanel’s iconic designs, from the Place Vendôme boutique to the geometric patterns in her collections.
Across the entire set, more than 9,200 to 9,236 brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle, totalling around 110 carats. Each stone is individually hand-set, a testament to the patience and skill of Chanel’s gem-setters. The board alone represents a symphony of contrasts: the matte resilience of ceramic against the fiery brilliance of diamonds, obsidian’s volcanic depth grounding the ethereal sparkle above.
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Every one of the 32 pieces is a miniature sculpture, far removed from standard chess tokens. Crafted via the lost-wax casting technique from bespoke moulds, they are sandblasted, polished, rhodium-plated where appropriate, and meticulously set with diamonds.
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The Queens: Miniature Gabrielle Chanel The undisputed stars are the two queens—one in white, one in black—portrayed as Coco Chanel in her most iconic pose. The white queen features Mademoiselle in a tweed jacket pavé-set with 842 brilliant-cut diamonds. The black counterpart accentuates her silhouette with 193 diamonds. Both stand poised, hands in pockets or at rest, wearing signature hats and pearls, exuding the effortless chic that revolutionised women’s fashion.
Hidden beneath their bases, under the slingbacks that became synonymous with Chanel elegance, are small quartz watch movements with approximately 25mm dials. Lift the queen, and time is revealed. The figure can then be suspended from a concealed chain within the board’s drawer, transforming the chess queen into a wearable pendant necklace. “The winner can, quite literally, wear time,” notes Chastaingt.
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The Kings: Majestic Lions Chanel’s emblematic lion—symbolising strength, protection, and her astrological sign—reigns as king. Sculpted with fierce detail, these pieces embody power and guardianship over the board.
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The Rooks: Vendôme Columns Inspired by the historic column outside Chanel’s flagship boutique at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris, these rooks evoke architectural grandeur and the maison’s deep Parisian roots.
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The Bishops: Couture Busts Miniature mannequins or busts reference the heart of Chanel’s atelier, where garments are draped, pinned, and perfected. They nod to the craftsmanship of haute couture.
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The Knights: Quilted Horses Chanel’s signature quilting—born from the practical needs of jockeys and later immortalised in the 2.55 bag—appears here as dynamic, quilted horse motifs, blending equestrian heritage with modern luxury.
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The Pawns These complete the ensemble with smaller, yet equally refined, interpretations of recurring Chanel motifs, ensuring no piece feels secondary.
The black pieces utilise high-resistance ceramic with white gold accents and diamonds, while the white pieces are executed primarily in 18k white gold, pavé- and snow-set for maximum brilliance. Material contrasts heighten the visual drama: cold, technical ceramic versus warm, luminous gold.
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Creating this set demanded the integration of Chanel’s métiers d’art at the highest level. Ceramic components required advanced firing techniques to achieve uniform colour and extreme durability. Goldsmiths shaped each figure with sculptural precision, ensuring they not only looked exquisite but also balanced perfectly for play. Gem-setters spent countless hours positioning thousands of diamonds by hand, achieving flawless alignment without compromising the pieces’ playability.
The concealed watches represent a subtle fusion of horology and jewellery. Though quartz for reliability and slimness in such miniature forms, they align with Chanel’s watchmaking heritage, seen in pieces like the Première and J12. The ability to detach and wear the queens adds a layer of interactivity and personalisation rare in high jewellery objects.
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The chess set anchors a broader “Coco Game” capsule of 14 limited-edition timepieces. Other highlights include the Noeud de Camélia (where camellia petals conceal a dial), the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion (a ring with a secret necklace and lion-head dial), pixel-art inspired diamond watches, and the Première Coco Game cocktail ring with a reveal mechanism. Gabrielle Chanel appears repeatedly, reinforcing her as the eternal muse.
This collection playfully bridges fashion, jewellery, watches, and games—domains where Chanel has long excelled. It echoes her own rebellious spirit: turning functional items into statements of empowerment and beauty.
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Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971) transformed not only fashion but also how women engaged with the world. From liberating silhouettes to the little black dress, pearls, and tweed, her codes remain instantly recognisable. By placing her miniature self as queen—strategic, powerful, and multifaceted—Chanel honours her founder while inviting players to embody that same commanding presence.
Chess itself carries layers of symbolism: intellect, strategy, duality (black vs. white mirroring Chanel’s signature palette), and the idea that even pawns can become queens. In this set, the game becomes a “little theatre,” as Chastaingt describes, where Chanel’s motifs perform and interact.
The $4 million price tag, while staggering, reflects the one-off nature, the volume of diamonds (over 110 carats), the years of development, and the integration of multiple artisanal disciplines. It sold or was acquired swiftly upon reveal, underscoring demand for such singular objets d’art among ultra-high-net-worth collectors.
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In an era of mass-produced luxury and digital distractions, objects like this chess set reaffirm the value of the tangible, the handcrafted, and the narrative-driven. It is not merely decorative; it invites interaction, storytelling, and even transformation. The winner doesn’t just checkmate—they claim a piece of Chanel history to wear.
This creation stands alongside other iconic Chanel horological and jewellery feats: the J12 ceramic watch, the ultra-thin Première, or high jewellery collections like the Camélia. Yet it distinguishes itself through its playful interactivity and complete embodiment of the maison’s universe in three dimensions.
For enthusiasts of chess, watches, or fine jewellery, it represents the ultimate convergence. Imagine a private salon where strategy unfolds across diamond-lit squares, the click of ceramic on ceramic punctuating quiet conversation, and at game’s end, a queen lifted to reveal time itself—then draped around the victor’s neck.
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Chanel’s one-off chess set is more than a luxury good; it is a cultural artefact. It encapsulates the maison’s DNA: innovation rooted in tradition, elegance with edge, and the belief that everyday rituals—like playing a game—can be elevated to extraordinary art. The miniature Gabrielle Chanel figures do not merely reign; they inspire, reminding us that true power lies in creativity, precision, and an unapologetic pursuit of beauty.
As watches tick discreetly beneath slingback soles and diamonds catch the light with every strategic advance, this chess set ensures that Coco’s spirit endures—not frozen in time, but actively engaged in it. In the hands of its owner, it will continue to spark imagination, much like the woman it immortalises. Checkmate, indeed.
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